On the 12th of May we packed up with excitement in a hurry to reach La Rochelle where we would meet with Graham’s brother Pat. A seasoned European camper he was making his way down to join us for the last ten days of the trip. After a time of concern that we had not directed him to the correct campsite, he finally pulled up looking rock and roll on his scooter bursting with tales of the adventures he had on his journey down.
Once Graham and I had completed our jenkers (mine inside the caravan, Graham’s out) and Pat had pitched his tent (in our Garden), we sat down with a cup of tea and spent the next few hours catching up. Krista and Pat bonded as they compared notes on their recent experiences in French hospitals. Pat paled when we informed him of the probable bill he would soon be receiving as a result. He felt suddenly less pleased about the size of the f…… great needle that had been introduced to the elbow damaged on the banks of the Loire.
There followed a relaxed time in our campsite just outside La Rochelle. We walked along the beach, visited the town centre, caught a little of the hair-raising World Cliff diving championships and kept Pat safe from a group of excitable French girls on a hen-night. While Pat and Graham reminisced about the French camping trip they had taken together ten years ago (‘where does the time go?’), Pat and Annie compared notes on bargains procured. Annie and Graham made a strong challenge with the pushchair and baby back-pack, due to an on-going problem with a wheel and Pat’s unerring devotion to the Meccas of Lidl and Aldi, the former won hands down. He also triumphed in several evening games of Rummicub and Scrabble.
Having persuaded Pat to wean himself temporarily from his camping diet of ‘potato puree and tinned mackerel’, we think he was impressed with the standard of meals produced (mainly by Graham) in our humble galley kitchen. However his experiences of the great LeClerc stir-fry, tuna au poivre, vegetarian shepherd’s pie, tuna pasta, grilled fish and baked potato, were curtailed when due to a gas leak we were left without an oven for the last week of the trip . Whereas Graham and I found ourselves at a loss and slightly hungry, a superior camping experience paid dividends as Pat returned happily to his rations.
After a delayed departure from La Rochelle when Pat’s battery went flat, we made a couple of nights stop at Le Mont St. Michel. Then we moved on to what was to be our last proper destination of Trouville and Deauville. As expected I loved these Normand seaside destinations made famous by their wooden promenades and historic popularity through history with the rich and famous. Deauville is comparable to somewhere like Cannes and has retained its affluent grandeur. But Trouville its idiosyncratic twin with all its highly unusual residences lining the beachfront, is more like Hastings. A former majesty echoes sadly from several dilapidated grand hotels, little populated restaurants and a shabby-looking Olympic lido. You can almost hear the chinks of the champagne glasses and the sound of the band as the ghosts of a past fast-set seem to party on forlornly behind the graffiti-ridden boardings of the town’s decaying casino and ball-room. An unexpected pilgrimage I felt satisfied to stumble across the final residence of Marguerite Duras, one of my favourite authors.
Sunday, 13 June 2010
Bordeaux - Graham's Birthday
As we journeyed onwards to Bordeaux we wondered if we were ever to enjoy more than two uninterrupted clear days … We settled in the sunshine in another holiday village type campsite, a surfers’ paradise on the edge of a small and alternative Californian style town called Monchic. The mood on the campsites had suddenly changed, with the onset of summer the average age has dropped to below 40 and Krista is no longer a novelty amongst the scores of other small children and babies. Although it is refreshing to be surrounded by families, we have been struck by the different level of friendliness you receive from younger people. Having grown used to being welcomed by neighbours, we are now adapting to fellow campers who perhaps looking to get away from the stresses and strains of daily life are hesitant to make a link and barely say hello.
A little like a Center-Park, this campsite was superiorly equipped with leisure facilities and amenities. While a most fantastic lap pool was closed for refurbishments, it did have a great tennis court. Graham and I fitted in a couple of games as Krista took her morning nap. Tennis was put off the agenda when on the verge of a rare but fantastic victory against Graham I managed to sprain my ankle badly. Instead we spent the afternoons lounging by the sites aesthetically designed leisure pool, Krista and I playing in the shade, Graham topping up his tan.
We celebrated Graham’s birthday with a stroll into town for a tub of the licorice flavour ice-cream we had discovered and later some toasted gaufres with squirty cream and a candle.
A little like a Center-Park, this campsite was superiorly equipped with leisure facilities and amenities. While a most fantastic lap pool was closed for refurbishments, it did have a great tennis court. Graham and I fitted in a couple of games as Krista took her morning nap. Tennis was put off the agenda when on the verge of a rare but fantastic victory against Graham I managed to sprain my ankle badly. Instead we spent the afternoons lounging by the sites aesthetically designed leisure pool, Krista and I playing in the shade, Graham topping up his tan.
We celebrated Graham’s birthday with a stroll into town for a tub of the licorice flavour ice-cream we had discovered and later some toasted gaufres with squirty cream and a candle.
Last few weeks ...
Hitting the Atlantic Coast at Biarritz ready for a leisurely journey towards Calais then home, we were struck by the significant drop in temperature. As has become the theme of the tour we were regaled by more tales of how ‘lovely’ the weather had been here last week and that what we were seeing was unprecedented for this time of year. We did not expect anything different by now, so bravely went back under the seats to unpack our winter clothes and pile on the layers for an outing into the centre of town.
Biarritz has a delightful olde world feel about it and we enjoyed hanging around the entrance to the impressive Hotel Imperial where an Audrey Tatou film we’d recently loved had been made. Sparing a thought for those who had booked up for a week of sunshine and luxury in this grand old seafront hotel, we hurried out of the biting wind back to the sanctuary of our warm, dry caravan just before it started to pour. I was not surprised at this as I had as usual hung a long line of washing. Once again I tried to comfort myself with the thought that rain acts as a natural softener … When it became clear that the wet was once again with us for several days I resigned myself back to the dryers and many more Euros in change.
Even the most pleasant of campsites seem miserable and deserted in the rain. No exception, this one was saved by the fact that it has the best swimming pool yet. 20 metres, indoor and heated I enjoyed having it to myself for the three days we were here. My ever indulgent Graham and Krista watched from the side while I lapped up and down.
Biarritz has a delightful olde world feel about it and we enjoyed hanging around the entrance to the impressive Hotel Imperial where an Audrey Tatou film we’d recently loved had been made. Sparing a thought for those who had booked up for a week of sunshine and luxury in this grand old seafront hotel, we hurried out of the biting wind back to the sanctuary of our warm, dry caravan just before it started to pour. I was not surprised at this as I had as usual hung a long line of washing. Once again I tried to comfort myself with the thought that rain acts as a natural softener … When it became clear that the wet was once again with us for several days I resigned myself back to the dryers and many more Euros in change.
Even the most pleasant of campsites seem miserable and deserted in the rain. No exception, this one was saved by the fact that it has the best swimming pool yet. 20 metres, indoor and heated I enjoyed having it to myself for the three days we were here. My ever indulgent Graham and Krista watched from the side while I lapped up and down.
Sunday, 23 May 2010
Biarritz
As we hit the Atlantic Coast at Biarritz ready for a leisurely journey towards Calais then home, we were ourselves struck by the significant drop in temperature. As has become the theme of the tour we were regaled by more tales of how ‘lovely’ the weather had been here last week and that what we were seeing was really quite unprecedented for this time of year. Not expecting anything different by now, back we bravely went under the seats to unpack our winter clothes and pile on the layers for an outing into the centre of town.
Biarritz has a delightful olde world feel about it and we enjoyed hanging around the entrance to the impressive Hotel Imperial were an Audrey Tatou film we’d recently loved had been made. Sparing a thought for those who had booked up for a week of sunshine and luxury in this grand old seafront hotel, we hurried out of the biting wind back to the sanctuary of our warm, dry caravan just before it started to pour. I was not surprised at this as I had as usual hung a long line of washing but once again tried to comfort myself with the thought that the rain acts as a natural softener … When it became clear that the wet was once again with us for several days I resigned back to the dryers and many more Euros in change.
Even the most pleasant of campsites seem miserable and deserted in the rain. No exception, this one was saved by the fact that it has the best swimming pool yet. 20 metres, indoor and heated I enjoyed having it to myself for the three days we were here and whiled away some time lapping up and down while Krista and Graham watched from the side.
Biarritz has a delightful olde world feel about it and we enjoyed hanging around the entrance to the impressive Hotel Imperial were an Audrey Tatou film we’d recently loved had been made. Sparing a thought for those who had booked up for a week of sunshine and luxury in this grand old seafront hotel, we hurried out of the biting wind back to the sanctuary of our warm, dry caravan just before it started to pour. I was not surprised at this as I had as usual hung a long line of washing but once again tried to comfort myself with the thought that the rain acts as a natural softener … When it became clear that the wet was once again with us for several days I resigned back to the dryers and many more Euros in change.
Even the most pleasant of campsites seem miserable and deserted in the rain. No exception, this one was saved by the fact that it has the best swimming pool yet. 20 metres, indoor and heated I enjoyed having it to myself for the three days we were here and whiled away some time lapping up and down while Krista and Graham watched from the side.
Tuesday, 18 May 2010
Home soon!
Hello to all our faithful followers. We are enjoying our last few days in France, heading for Calais and the ferry on Sunday evening. We have met up with Graham's brother Pat and spent five nights together in La Rochelle. We have now all moved up to a site near the Mont St.Michel and leave tomorrow for Deauville. Using the last few days to reflect on the trip, we can't believe where the time has gone. Despite a tour never to be forgotten, we are all happy to be coming home. Krista is very adventurous and needs more space to explore, its quite difficult to keep her contained in the caravan with its confined spaces and obstacles to her safe passage! We are so looking forward to seeing everyone and can't wait for you to meet our 8 month old bundle of joy (and grinch) who is growing up so fine and quick.
Sunday, 9 May 2010
Lourdes
Lourdes
Passing so close, we both wanted to stop off in Lourdes and see what it was all about. Graham’s brother Pat had been right when he said that it was well worth a visit. The 19th century town that built up after local girl Bernadette is said to have seen various apparitions of the Virgin Mary is set in an amazing location on a rushing river amongst the Pyrenees. Through the tat of the icon peddling streets we got to the area of ‘La Grotte’ (where these visions occurred) in time for the 4.30 pm daily procession of pilgrims.
A bizarre but touching sight we watched agog as the hundreds of sick people progressed to the chapel. It seems that each pilgrim is assigned a personal nurse, dressed in a old fashioned red, white and blue uniform to wheel them about the place in ungainly, blue, hooded, wheelchair contraptions. Something to do with the Order of Malta we couldn’t work out whether these nurses were nuns, volunteers or just civilian nurses employed to accompany people on this pilgrimage. Some looked quite holy while others too glamorous in high heels and plenty of make-up to be brides of Christ.
The pilgrims passed in country groups, the largest being Italian then Maltese. There were a considerable number of French, Irish and Austrians, then a spattering of Brits towards the end. We vowed to find one of these and get the low down on how it all worked. Since the opportunity didn’t arise, we will have to do some internet research. Some pilgrims were old, others quite sick. Many looked pained while others seemed made up to be there. We were a shocked to see some fully covered stretchers and guessed that these transported those pilgrims who sadly hadn’t quite made it… Initially a little unsettled by the experience we got quite into things with all the singing and waving. Plenty were cheered by the sight of Krista enjoying the proceedings from the side. One girl was very happy to see the large crowds who had turned out to say hello to her and blew regal kisses from side to side. A couple of young men had brought water pistols to keep them amused.
Waiting to visit the cave where Sainte Bernadette was said to have received her visitations in 1858, we were suddenly being fast-tracked to the front. Not quite sure what was happening we hoped that we hadn’t given the wrong impression with the permanent makeshift sunshade that protects our ‘baby vampire’ from the sun. Happy to avoid the long wait we didn’t protest but thought it polite to remove Krista from behind her screen lest prayers should be wasted on our bonny girl.
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