On the 12th of May we packed up with excitement in a hurry to reach La Rochelle where we would meet with Graham’s brother Pat. A seasoned European camper he was making his way down to join us for the last ten days of the trip. After a time of concern that we had not directed him to the correct campsite, he finally pulled up looking rock and roll on his scooter bursting with tales of the adventures he had on his journey down.
Once Graham and I had completed our jenkers (mine inside the caravan, Graham’s out) and Pat had pitched his tent (in our Garden), we sat down with a cup of tea and spent the next few hours catching up. Krista and Pat bonded as they compared notes on their recent experiences in French hospitals. Pat paled when we informed him of the probable bill he would soon be receiving as a result. He felt suddenly less pleased about the size of the f…… great needle that had been introduced to the elbow damaged on the banks of the Loire.
There followed a relaxed time in our campsite just outside La Rochelle. We walked along the beach, visited the town centre, caught a little of the hair-raising World Cliff diving championships and kept Pat safe from a group of excitable French girls on a hen-night. While Pat and Graham reminisced about the French camping trip they had taken together ten years ago (‘where does the time go?’), Pat and Annie compared notes on bargains procured. Annie and Graham made a strong challenge with the pushchair and baby back-pack, due to an on-going problem with a wheel and Pat’s unerring devotion to the Meccas of Lidl and Aldi, the former won hands down. He also triumphed in several evening games of Rummicub and Scrabble.
Having persuaded Pat to wean himself temporarily from his camping diet of ‘potato puree and tinned mackerel’, we think he was impressed with the standard of meals produced (mainly by Graham) in our humble galley kitchen. However his experiences of the great LeClerc stir-fry, tuna au poivre, vegetarian shepherd’s pie, tuna pasta, grilled fish and baked potato, were curtailed when due to a gas leak we were left without an oven for the last week of the trip . Whereas Graham and I found ourselves at a loss and slightly hungry, a superior camping experience paid dividends as Pat returned happily to his rations.
After a delayed departure from La Rochelle when Pat’s battery went flat, we made a couple of nights stop at Le Mont St. Michel. Then we moved on to what was to be our last proper destination of Trouville and Deauville. As expected I loved these Normand seaside destinations made famous by their wooden promenades and historic popularity through history with the rich and famous. Deauville is comparable to somewhere like Cannes and has retained its affluent grandeur. But Trouville its idiosyncratic twin with all its highly unusual residences lining the beachfront, is more like Hastings. A former majesty echoes sadly from several dilapidated grand hotels, little populated restaurants and a shabby-looking Olympic lido. You can almost hear the chinks of the champagne glasses and the sound of the band as the ghosts of a past fast-set seem to party on forlornly behind the graffiti-ridden boardings of the town’s decaying casino and ball-room. An unexpected pilgrimage I felt satisfied to stumble across the final residence of Marguerite Duras, one of my favourite authors.
Sunday, 13 June 2010
Bordeaux - Graham's Birthday
As we journeyed onwards to Bordeaux we wondered if we were ever to enjoy more than two uninterrupted clear days … We settled in the sunshine in another holiday village type campsite, a surfers’ paradise on the edge of a small and alternative Californian style town called Monchic. The mood on the campsites had suddenly changed, with the onset of summer the average age has dropped to below 40 and Krista is no longer a novelty amongst the scores of other small children and babies. Although it is refreshing to be surrounded by families, we have been struck by the different level of friendliness you receive from younger people. Having grown used to being welcomed by neighbours, we are now adapting to fellow campers who perhaps looking to get away from the stresses and strains of daily life are hesitant to make a link and barely say hello.
A little like a Center-Park, this campsite was superiorly equipped with leisure facilities and amenities. While a most fantastic lap pool was closed for refurbishments, it did have a great tennis court. Graham and I fitted in a couple of games as Krista took her morning nap. Tennis was put off the agenda when on the verge of a rare but fantastic victory against Graham I managed to sprain my ankle badly. Instead we spent the afternoons lounging by the sites aesthetically designed leisure pool, Krista and I playing in the shade, Graham topping up his tan.
We celebrated Graham’s birthday with a stroll into town for a tub of the licorice flavour ice-cream we had discovered and later some toasted gaufres with squirty cream and a candle.
A little like a Center-Park, this campsite was superiorly equipped with leisure facilities and amenities. While a most fantastic lap pool was closed for refurbishments, it did have a great tennis court. Graham and I fitted in a couple of games as Krista took her morning nap. Tennis was put off the agenda when on the verge of a rare but fantastic victory against Graham I managed to sprain my ankle badly. Instead we spent the afternoons lounging by the sites aesthetically designed leisure pool, Krista and I playing in the shade, Graham topping up his tan.
We celebrated Graham’s birthday with a stroll into town for a tub of the licorice flavour ice-cream we had discovered and later some toasted gaufres with squirty cream and a candle.
Last few weeks ...
Hitting the Atlantic Coast at Biarritz ready for a leisurely journey towards Calais then home, we were struck by the significant drop in temperature. As has become the theme of the tour we were regaled by more tales of how ‘lovely’ the weather had been here last week and that what we were seeing was unprecedented for this time of year. We did not expect anything different by now, so bravely went back under the seats to unpack our winter clothes and pile on the layers for an outing into the centre of town.
Biarritz has a delightful olde world feel about it and we enjoyed hanging around the entrance to the impressive Hotel Imperial where an Audrey Tatou film we’d recently loved had been made. Sparing a thought for those who had booked up for a week of sunshine and luxury in this grand old seafront hotel, we hurried out of the biting wind back to the sanctuary of our warm, dry caravan just before it started to pour. I was not surprised at this as I had as usual hung a long line of washing. Once again I tried to comfort myself with the thought that rain acts as a natural softener … When it became clear that the wet was once again with us for several days I resigned myself back to the dryers and many more Euros in change.
Even the most pleasant of campsites seem miserable and deserted in the rain. No exception, this one was saved by the fact that it has the best swimming pool yet. 20 metres, indoor and heated I enjoyed having it to myself for the three days we were here. My ever indulgent Graham and Krista watched from the side while I lapped up and down.
Biarritz has a delightful olde world feel about it and we enjoyed hanging around the entrance to the impressive Hotel Imperial where an Audrey Tatou film we’d recently loved had been made. Sparing a thought for those who had booked up for a week of sunshine and luxury in this grand old seafront hotel, we hurried out of the biting wind back to the sanctuary of our warm, dry caravan just before it started to pour. I was not surprised at this as I had as usual hung a long line of washing. Once again I tried to comfort myself with the thought that rain acts as a natural softener … When it became clear that the wet was once again with us for several days I resigned myself back to the dryers and many more Euros in change.
Even the most pleasant of campsites seem miserable and deserted in the rain. No exception, this one was saved by the fact that it has the best swimming pool yet. 20 metres, indoor and heated I enjoyed having it to myself for the three days we were here. My ever indulgent Graham and Krista watched from the side while I lapped up and down.
Sunday, 23 May 2010
Biarritz
As we hit the Atlantic Coast at Biarritz ready for a leisurely journey towards Calais then home, we were ourselves struck by the significant drop in temperature. As has become the theme of the tour we were regaled by more tales of how ‘lovely’ the weather had been here last week and that what we were seeing was really quite unprecedented for this time of year. Not expecting anything different by now, back we bravely went under the seats to unpack our winter clothes and pile on the layers for an outing into the centre of town.
Biarritz has a delightful olde world feel about it and we enjoyed hanging around the entrance to the impressive Hotel Imperial were an Audrey Tatou film we’d recently loved had been made. Sparing a thought for those who had booked up for a week of sunshine and luxury in this grand old seafront hotel, we hurried out of the biting wind back to the sanctuary of our warm, dry caravan just before it started to pour. I was not surprised at this as I had as usual hung a long line of washing but once again tried to comfort myself with the thought that the rain acts as a natural softener … When it became clear that the wet was once again with us for several days I resigned back to the dryers and many more Euros in change.
Even the most pleasant of campsites seem miserable and deserted in the rain. No exception, this one was saved by the fact that it has the best swimming pool yet. 20 metres, indoor and heated I enjoyed having it to myself for the three days we were here and whiled away some time lapping up and down while Krista and Graham watched from the side.
Biarritz has a delightful olde world feel about it and we enjoyed hanging around the entrance to the impressive Hotel Imperial were an Audrey Tatou film we’d recently loved had been made. Sparing a thought for those who had booked up for a week of sunshine and luxury in this grand old seafront hotel, we hurried out of the biting wind back to the sanctuary of our warm, dry caravan just before it started to pour. I was not surprised at this as I had as usual hung a long line of washing but once again tried to comfort myself with the thought that the rain acts as a natural softener … When it became clear that the wet was once again with us for several days I resigned back to the dryers and many more Euros in change.
Even the most pleasant of campsites seem miserable and deserted in the rain. No exception, this one was saved by the fact that it has the best swimming pool yet. 20 metres, indoor and heated I enjoyed having it to myself for the three days we were here and whiled away some time lapping up and down while Krista and Graham watched from the side.
Tuesday, 18 May 2010
Home soon!
Hello to all our faithful followers. We are enjoying our last few days in France, heading for Calais and the ferry on Sunday evening. We have met up with Graham's brother Pat and spent five nights together in La Rochelle. We have now all moved up to a site near the Mont St.Michel and leave tomorrow for Deauville. Using the last few days to reflect on the trip, we can't believe where the time has gone. Despite a tour never to be forgotten, we are all happy to be coming home. Krista is very adventurous and needs more space to explore, its quite difficult to keep her contained in the caravan with its confined spaces and obstacles to her safe passage! We are so looking forward to seeing everyone and can't wait for you to meet our 8 month old bundle of joy (and grinch) who is growing up so fine and quick.
Sunday, 9 May 2010
Lourdes
Lourdes
Passing so close, we both wanted to stop off in Lourdes and see what it was all about. Graham’s brother Pat had been right when he said that it was well worth a visit. The 19th century town that built up after local girl Bernadette is said to have seen various apparitions of the Virgin Mary is set in an amazing location on a rushing river amongst the Pyrenees. Through the tat of the icon peddling streets we got to the area of ‘La Grotte’ (where these visions occurred) in time for the 4.30 pm daily procession of pilgrims.
A bizarre but touching sight we watched agog as the hundreds of sick people progressed to the chapel. It seems that each pilgrim is assigned a personal nurse, dressed in a old fashioned red, white and blue uniform to wheel them about the place in ungainly, blue, hooded, wheelchair contraptions. Something to do with the Order of Malta we couldn’t work out whether these nurses were nuns, volunteers or just civilian nurses employed to accompany people on this pilgrimage. Some looked quite holy while others too glamorous in high heels and plenty of make-up to be brides of Christ.
The pilgrims passed in country groups, the largest being Italian then Maltese. There were a considerable number of French, Irish and Austrians, then a spattering of Brits towards the end. We vowed to find one of these and get the low down on how it all worked. Since the opportunity didn’t arise, we will have to do some internet research. Some pilgrims were old, others quite sick. Many looked pained while others seemed made up to be there. We were a shocked to see some fully covered stretchers and guessed that these transported those pilgrims who sadly hadn’t quite made it… Initially a little unsettled by the experience we got quite into things with all the singing and waving. Plenty were cheered by the sight of Krista enjoying the proceedings from the side. One girl was very happy to see the large crowds who had turned out to say hello to her and blew regal kisses from side to side. A couple of young men had brought water pistols to keep them amused.
Waiting to visit the cave where Sainte Bernadette was said to have received her visitations in 1858, we were suddenly being fast-tracked to the front. Not quite sure what was happening we hoped that we hadn’t given the wrong impression with the permanent makeshift sunshade that protects our ‘baby vampire’ from the sun. Happy to avoid the long wait we didn’t protest but thought it polite to remove Krista from behind her screen lest prayers should be wasted on our bonny girl.
Toulouse
Toulouse
Next stop was a small village called Martres-Tolosane around 60km from Toulouse. The campsites seem to be improving in quality as we move west. In a peaceful natural setting amongst the trees, on the edge of the Garonne and at the foot of a small mountain this one was no exception. Although we were disappointed to find yet another empty swimming pool despite the weather being hot enough for outdoor swimming … we did manage to get in two games of tennis without interruption from our sleeping cherub.
We stopped near Toulouse so that we could visit an old BA friend of mine, Bérengère and her family. We had been out of contact since I had left flying in 2006 but I had managed to find her again through her brother on Facebook. I’m so glad we did. Bérengère is a real keeper and after a lovely afternoon together in her hometown of Saramon with her partner Gäetan and her two children Lou and Milo we vowed never again to leave it so long.
Carcassonne
From Sainte Maxime we travelled back through Marseille to St Martin de Crau for the night. On the way we stopped off to say another hello to Stéphanie and family. Krista picked up another bag of clothes, a hand knitted waistcoat from Stephanie’s grandmother and we stocked up on Josie’s delicious fig jam.
St Martin de Crau is a typical Provençal town close to Arles and we were at first excited to see that we had unexpectedly arrived in the middle of its annual Bull-fighting and horse-riding Feria. It was Saturday night and the small town was buoyed up with a party spirit, so we decided to pack Krista into her pushchair and go out for dinner. It soon became clear however that it was not so much the place for a touring family to be. While the wine and beer flowed copiously, everywhere we looked were the ubiquitous groups of dodgy teenagers skulking hopefully for a kiss or a fight on the one night of the year their sleepy town came to life. Therefore we opted for a pizza and an(other) early night. The pizza worked out fine the early night did not. Returning to the caravan we discovered that our pitch was right at the back of a place that had been transformed into a ‘Eurodisco’ for this special night. Put it this way – thanks to what must be said a great sound system and a pretty good DJ we didn’t get a wink of sleep before 2am! We had planned to hang around to see what was going on the next day but after the torturous night we couldn’t wait to get back to the tranquility we have grown used to over the past 5 months.
After one more night in a beautiful but mosquito infested campsite near Narbonne, we rediscovered our peace in Carcassonne. Here we enjoyed three nights in what we found to be a gorgeous place. Whereas ‘La Cité’ of Carcassonne is perhaps only worth one visit in a lifetime, the newer town is a good place to spend some time. It has a picturesque setting on a river and a sprawling park to run or walk in. The campsite was perhaps one of the best we have been in so far with its sunny, spacious grassy pitches. We were finally able to set Krista up on a blanket to play with her toys and she had a lovely time rolling off onto the grass to taste the mud and the daisies.
Friday, 30 April 2010
Sainte Maxime, France
After 2 weeks on the Côte d’Azur we are now crossing France making short stops on our way to Biarritz. The temperature has shot up in the past few days and we now find ourselves thinking that it is getting too hot. Oh why as humans can we never be satisfied, must we drive ourselves mad with our constant complaining?
We voted the campsite at Sainte.Maxime one of our favourite. This was due to the perfect location, upon the water’s edge, an unspoiled view of St.Tropez bay and the great Dutch couple – Hank and Corry next door. While Hank enthralled us with tales of life as an Amsterdam police detective and tickled us with his subtle sense of humour, Corry was always bright and upbeat. Like many women away from their grandchildren, she was smitten with Krista. Krista took a particular liking to their little dog Lotja. However even she could not compete in her affections with the gang of pigeons that popped round to our awning for their daily crumbs of French bread.
As usual we took few trips out in the car, preferring to walk or run along the cycle path into Ste.Maxime or Port Grimaud each day. Graham was the victor in the great race to submerge the whole body in the sea and achieved two strokes of breast on the 19th April. I came in third on the 21st but did swim for at least five minutes. We therefore held our own against our Lyonnaise neighbours who took second place by swimming properly on the 20th.
Krista is now approaching her 8 month anniversary and growing up faster than possible to believe. Keeping us amused with her chatter and songs, we now need eyes in the back or her head as she explores every nook and cranny of the caravan. She sits up securely rolls and almost crawls on all fours, held back not by an incredible strength but a slight lack of technique. She can just about pull herself up to standing and will use any available structure to do so. She likes to play with anything that is not a toy, the more unsuitable the better – electrical wires being the number one favourite and now as we have moved outside mud and daisies.
She gets extremely frustrated when things are not quite as she thinks they should be … we look forward with trepidation to the ‘terrible twos’ if this is how she is at 7months. She still has no teeth but doesn’t let this stop her in the food stakes. Like Graham she has developed a fondness for French bread (far more appetizing than the rice cakes I’d like her to prefer). Also like Graham she’s been developing quite a tummy on the ever abundant supply of French patisserie!
To keep tummies in check we have bought her (ourselves) a wonderful racing red pushchair designed especially for running. (Although we really don’t have the space for two large pushchairs, this was a bargain we just couldn’t pass on at a local boot-fair). The spokes in one of the wheels need repairing but once that is fixed we can’t wait to get it down to the park-run for a trial. In the same deal, we also got a baby back-pack. Krista sits in it like the Queen of Sheba made up with her new view of the world.
Saturday, 24 April 2010
Ste Maxime
Hello all. We have just spent a fantastic two weeks camping on the beach in Sainte Maxime. After several paddling sessions Graham finally swam in the sea on the 19th April. Annie not to be outdone got in (for longer) on the 21st. Krista dipped her feet in but found it shockingly cold! She'll go in next year! We are now making our way to Biarritz.
Friday, 16 April 2010
More from Aix-en-Provence
It has been good for me to return to Aix and spend some time with my French ‘family’ there. I lived in Aix for about five years both during and after my university days. Stephanie is my good friend from that time and we have remained close despite the distance. We saw Stephanie and her two children Dionys and Hermès (three and fifteen months) almost every day either at the campsite, Stephanie’s home or in Aix itself. We paid a couple of visits to Stephanie’s parents and also caught up with her brother Laurent and his girlfriend Sandrine when Stephanie cooked a wonderful quiche and Spanish omelette.
I took as much advantage as possible of the Olympic size pool while in Aix. It felt gorgeous to be back in this place I had spent so much time in all those years ago. Now about 10 years since I left Aix, I didn’t imagine I would ever get the chance return to one of the top pools I have ever swum in. It was a strange experience, like stepping back in time as nothing seemed to have changed. The changing rooms are still manned in the old fashioned way with baskets for your clothes to hand to the attendant.
I always enjoyed watching the top-flight synchronized swimmers rehearsing between my lengths. I felt warm inside as I recogn€ized what had become the familiar sound of the coaches tapping time on the metal bars with a coin. The next generation of svelte dolphins-girls were now faultlessly cork-screwing their way to the bottom of the pool tirelessly perfecting their idiosyncratic routines. I’ve always told Graham about Aix’s synchronized swimmers, so was happy he could finally witness their Olympic brilliance for himself as he and Krista watched from the stands.
Toying with the idea of some French lessons in this time Graham took a 90 minute trial in a language school that used a learning method pioneered by a Hungarian called Georgi Lozanov. The trial involved him sitting alone in a room in a comfortable chair wearing dark glasses and headphones. Music was played and blue lights flashed in front of his closed eyes. He had to listen to a piece of text and repeat phrases. After a short break he returned to the room without the glasses and listened to more music and then followed a written version of the text as he listened again. At the end the teacher came to him, re-read the text, and he finally had to read the text himself. Somehow with in all of this the level of his language knowledge was assessed to decide where he would begin his lessons. Graham immerged a little shell-shocked from this bizarre experience and over lunch with Stephanie and I decided the method was not for him. In his words ‘I’m not paying €50 Euros an hour for those bullocks and now I think I’ve got a migraine coming’. He remains faithful to his old friend Michel Thomas.
So having planned to stay in Aix for up to a month but took the decision to move sooner. Despite being in a beautiful campsite at the foot of Cezanne’s Sainte Victoire mountain, we were unable to go out without the car. Due to the mountainous terrain the area is not well adapted for those who want to walk with a pushchair as we discovered with Alison on a hike around the Barrage of Bimont. We began therefore to feel a little trapped. So after just over two weeks in Aix-en-Provence we have moved closer to the Cote d’Azur and found a perfect campsite in between Sainte Maxime and Port Grimaud. Our pitch is quite literally on the edge of the sea and we have cycle track and pavement that lead all the way into both towns for our daily walks and runs.
Monday, 5 April 2010
Wednesday, 31 March 2010
The Biscuit Bunch receives its first visitor!
At the foot of the Sainte Victoire just outside Aix-en-Provence the Biscuit Bunch were very happy to receive its first visitor. We picked up Alison on the 25th March at Marseille Airport and spent 4 very enjoyable days together.
On the first afternoon we went into Aix for a walk around town. Friday night we got on our glad rags and hit Marseille for a night of Ceroc. Saturday was spent relaxing and eating - lots of French bread and patisseries as one simply must when in France.
Sunday we headed back into Aix where we happened on an exciting bicycle race (La Ronde de Provence), as you do in France. Alison then generously treated us to a meal in one of the pavement cafes on the stylish Cour Mirabeau.
Alison quickly adapted to life Chez Biscuit, she had excellent spacial awareness (not an inch to spare inside the caravan) and made a stirling job of mucking in with all that needed doing the moment it needed doing. Krista was very happy to welcome a new face and loved getting to know her honorary auntie.
Thank you for coming Alison and thank you for the gifts. We are glad you got home safely and look forward to seeing you on our return x
Sunday, 21 March 2010
Nous sommes en France!
Quick update while using my 15 minutes of free internet! We have arrived in France anf are heading for Aix-en-Provence. I promise lots of photos as soon as we have the time to download them. We are all well and hope you are too. Lots of love The Biscuit Bunch xxxx
Benicassim, Tuesday 8th March – Wednesday 17th March
After Valencia we spent a perfect week in what was for us a perfect town - Benicassim. Against our now very exacting standards we both voted the campsite the best we have stayed in to date – clean, tidy and friendly with good toilet facilities, an indoor pool and a tennis court. The town itself was an old and traditional Spanish seaside resort that ticked all our requirement boxes – a very Spanish feel, everything in walking distance, a long, clean promenade, nice places for coffee, and a brand new indoor municipal swimming pool. So my swimming drought was now definitely over and I had what is more a choice of pools. With the campsite’s a little small, I opted for the gorgeous 25 metre and often empty one in town. Knowing how good swimming is for my mood Graham let me go every day! He in turn answered an ad for a tennis partner on site and played two matches against a fellow camper called Wolfgang. Although they were both good and satisfying games, Wolfgang had the edge on Graham and we had to leave Germany once again up on England. Graham was luckier at the go-kart track and came in first with some very respectable lap times. Although he had plenty of support from Krista and I on the sidelines he cut a lonely figure out on the track all alone … He missed having Graham or Jake to race.
Krista accomplished several firsts in Benicassim. Number 1 was a bath in the main shower blocks where they had special baby bathing facilities, second was a night out dancing to ‘Henrike Duet’ in the campsite bar. Third much to her own and everyone’s delight was her first evening meal out in a highchair at the campsite restaurant. My goodness the Biscuit Bunch know how to live!
Krista accomplished several firsts in Benicassim. Number 1 was a bath in the main shower blocks where they had special baby bathing facilities, second was a night out dancing to ‘Henrike Duet’ in the campsite bar. Third much to her own and everyone’s delight was her first evening meal out in a highchair at the campsite restaurant. My goodness the Biscuit Bunch know how to live!
Valencia - Saturday 6th March – Tuesday 8th March
Today we made our way up to Valencia and pitched up at a site 6km outside the city. We often find our campsites in the ACSI guide for ‘off-season’ camping. For ₤10 it comes with a card that entitles you to stay at its listed sites for an all inclusive price of 15 Euros. This compared to standard rates of 25 Euros upwards is very reasonable. We have discovered, contrary to what we imagined, that camping is by no means the cheap way of doing things. When you add up the cost of everything necessary for a reasonably comfortable 6 months it would be cheaper to rent an apartment somewhere. However you would not then have the freedom to travel around and get to know more than one place. We are thinking that now knowing the places we have liked more and those less perhaps this would be an option for the future.
The campsite for Valencia was very standard and functional for those like us who wanted to be in a convenient place for the city. We spent two days making the twenty minute journey by bus into the centre and discovering a little of the city. We had purposefully ensured that we were not here during the week of the ‘Fallas’ festival as we felt there would be too many people and too much noise for the baby. However as with so many celebrations nowadays things were revving up well in advance and there was already much related activity going on. During the ‘Fallas’ there are processions, burning effigies, fireworks and thousands of firecrackers being set off in the street. The firecrackers come in all sizes and some sound like bombs going off. We were vary of any being set off too close to Krista but soon found that it was difficult to escape them. But I do think Graham and I were far more affected by them than she seemed to be. Our hardy baby took it all very much in her stride.
In the run up to the festival hundreds of ‘official’ crackers were also being set off every day in the main square at two o’clock. It seemed that the whole of Valencia would flock there to witness the spectacle and deafening explosion of noise this created. We had heard it from a distance on the Sunday so knew on the Monday when we found ourselves wanting to cross the square at 10 minutes to two that we needed to get as far away as possible. This entailed running as fast as we could in that time from the square and against the throng of people hurry to it. We had done the right thing for even ten minutes away the buildings seemed to reverberate from the shock of what must be a lot of money and all the hard work of the set up going up in some very noisy smoke!
When not dodging firecrackers we visited what we found a fairly mediocre modern art museum and the very impressive bright white and sparkling complex of Opera House, Science and Oceanographic Museums. For refreshment after all the walking and running we tested the ‘Horchata’ drink that is a tradition in the region. Sweet and served semi-frozen we found it quite delicious and were pleasantly surprised from its milkyness to find that it is totally non-dairy. It is made simply from crushed monkey-nuts and also delicious in ice-cream form – a recommendation to vegans in particular (Rachel and Steve)!
The campsite for Valencia was very standard and functional for those like us who wanted to be in a convenient place for the city. We spent two days making the twenty minute journey by bus into the centre and discovering a little of the city. We had purposefully ensured that we were not here during the week of the ‘Fallas’ festival as we felt there would be too many people and too much noise for the baby. However as with so many celebrations nowadays things were revving up well in advance and there was already much related activity going on. During the ‘Fallas’ there are processions, burning effigies, fireworks and thousands of firecrackers being set off in the street. The firecrackers come in all sizes and some sound like bombs going off. We were vary of any being set off too close to Krista but soon found that it was difficult to escape them. But I do think Graham and I were far more affected by them than she seemed to be. Our hardy baby took it all very much in her stride.
In the run up to the festival hundreds of ‘official’ crackers were also being set off every day in the main square at two o’clock. It seemed that the whole of Valencia would flock there to witness the spectacle and deafening explosion of noise this created. We had heard it from a distance on the Sunday so knew on the Monday when we found ourselves wanting to cross the square at 10 minutes to two that we needed to get as far away as possible. This entailed running as fast as we could in that time from the square and against the throng of people hurry to it. We had done the right thing for even ten minutes away the buildings seemed to reverberate from the shock of what must be a lot of money and all the hard work of the set up going up in some very noisy smoke!
When not dodging firecrackers we visited what we found a fairly mediocre modern art museum and the very impressive bright white and sparkling complex of Opera House, Science and Oceanographic Museums. For refreshment after all the walking and running we tested the ‘Horchata’ drink that is a tradition in the region. Sweet and served semi-frozen we found it quite delicious and were pleasantly surprised from its milkyness to find that it is totally non-dairy. It is made simply from crushed monkey-nuts and also delicious in ice-cream form – a recommendation to vegans in particular (Rachel and Steve)!
Thursday, 11 March 2010
Beyond La Manga
A quick update of progress as we have poor internet connection and I am unsure of how much I will get to post over the next week or so.
From La Manga we went up to Valencia. We stayed just outside the city and spent two days taking a 30 minute busride into the centre. Absolutely loved Valencia as a city. They were 'warming' up for the annual 'Fallas' so everything had a real buzz about it.
We are now in the gorgeous coastal resort of Benicassim. I at least vote it as my favourite place so far and we have all agreed that the campsite is the best yet. More details to come shortly.
With snow in Barcelona and that route into France currently blocked by all reports we plan to bide our time here until the weather improves. Although it is cold here we have enjoyed two days of unbroken sunshine. We will have definately moved into France by 25th March when we have a rendez-vous with Alison at Marseille airport!
Love to all xxxx
From La Manga we went up to Valencia. We stayed just outside the city and spent two days taking a 30 minute busride into the centre. Absolutely loved Valencia as a city. They were 'warming' up for the annual 'Fallas' so everything had a real buzz about it.
We are now in the gorgeous coastal resort of Benicassim. I at least vote it as my favourite place so far and we have all agreed that the campsite is the best yet. More details to come shortly.
With snow in Barcelona and that route into France currently blocked by all reports we plan to bide our time here until the weather improves. Although it is cold here we have enjoyed two days of unbroken sunshine. We will have definately moved into France by 25th March when we have a rendez-vous with Alison at Marseille airport!
Love to all xxxx
Camping and Caravan Club Rally - La Manga
Saturday 27th February – Saturday 6th March
A text message from England to say that friends of Graham’s brother Pat would be staying on a campsite in La Manga decided us to make this our next stop. This also gave us the opportunity to discover more about what was for us the new phenomenon of a ‘Camping and Caravan Club rally’. By joining a rally members of the club get preferential rates on pitches pre-booked for stretches of several months out of season. Almost as if on a holiday camp you can then opt to join in with the many activities stewards then organize for the rally campers. Many people go for the duration of the rally and do so year in year out, meeting up with friends made and joining in with all activities (visits, quizzes, meals, dances, classes, sports etc.). Others like us just join for a shorter period, benefit from the good rates and join in with some or none of the events on offer.
Finding people if slightly older than us on average, as ever helpful and welcoming, we resolved to get as involved as a 6 month old baby permits. This meant a slightly dodgy yoga class for Annie and a Pictionary type quiz entry for us all. Each team was given the name of a pub which had to be drawn represented in pictures then stuck to the front of the caravan. Over the course of a few days you then had to go round to the other caravans/motor-homes and guess their pub. Graham was chief sketcher; Annie neatened the drawing, while Krista got us an extension on the entry dead-line and charmed the other participants to give us lots of extra clues. Despite these we didn’t manage to win the €8 first prize, but we did get the €3 prize for best drawing!
Pleased with our success, the quiz also gave Graham the perfect opportunity to get a good look through the windows of several motor-homes (see ‘Hymer-envy ‘ as mentioned previously). He also wangled us a visit to another rallier’s Rapido – the French equivalent to the German Hymer. Although we of course love our modest Bailey Ranger Caravan, these things are in another league and we could imagine finding it very comfortable indeed!
We met up with Pat's friend's Bill and Val towards the end of our week when they arrived for some wind-surfing. La Manga is a perfect spot for this and Bill and Val are very good. They were also very good at Rummi-kub as they proved during the enjoyable evening we spent playing with them. We clinked our glasses to Pat and Sue over an extremely good bottle of wine from the local Aldi - a real bargain at 0,89 euros - and all resolved to hurry back there to make a stock before the secret got around the campsite.
A text message from England to say that friends of Graham’s brother Pat would be staying on a campsite in La Manga decided us to make this our next stop. This also gave us the opportunity to discover more about what was for us the new phenomenon of a ‘Camping and Caravan Club rally’. By joining a rally members of the club get preferential rates on pitches pre-booked for stretches of several months out of season. Almost as if on a holiday camp you can then opt to join in with the many activities stewards then organize for the rally campers. Many people go for the duration of the rally and do so year in year out, meeting up with friends made and joining in with all activities (visits, quizzes, meals, dances, classes, sports etc.). Others like us just join for a shorter period, benefit from the good rates and join in with some or none of the events on offer.
Finding people if slightly older than us on average, as ever helpful and welcoming, we resolved to get as involved as a 6 month old baby permits. This meant a slightly dodgy yoga class for Annie and a Pictionary type quiz entry for us all. Each team was given the name of a pub which had to be drawn represented in pictures then stuck to the front of the caravan. Over the course of a few days you then had to go round to the other caravans/motor-homes and guess their pub. Graham was chief sketcher; Annie neatened the drawing, while Krista got us an extension on the entry dead-line and charmed the other participants to give us lots of extra clues. Despite these we didn’t manage to win the €8 first prize, but we did get the €3 prize for best drawing!
Pleased with our success, the quiz also gave Graham the perfect opportunity to get a good look through the windows of several motor-homes (see ‘Hymer-envy ‘ as mentioned previously). He also wangled us a visit to another rallier’s Rapido – the French equivalent to the German Hymer. Although we of course love our modest Bailey Ranger Caravan, these things are in another league and we could imagine finding it very comfortable indeed!
We met up with Pat's friend's Bill and Val towards the end of our week when they arrived for some wind-surfing. La Manga is a perfect spot for this and Bill and Val are very good. They were also very good at Rummi-kub as they proved during the enjoyable evening we spent playing with them. We clinked our glasses to Pat and Sue over an extremely good bottle of wine from the local Aldi - a real bargain at 0,89 euros - and all resolved to hurry back there to make a stock before the secret got around the campsite.
Wednesday, 10 March 2010
Isla la Plana
Tuesday 23rd – Saturday 27th
In good spirits at the thought that Annie would today be breaking her longest ever ‘swim-fast’ in a pool freshly –filled daily with seawater, we jaunted along the coast towards Cartagena. So begin to imagine the Bunch’s disappointment to find on arrival in Isla Plana that the campsite was FULL with people pitched up outside waiting for the next space!???? We couldn’t help going in to check out the afore-mentioned pool area where peoplewere enjoying an aqua aerobics session in the sunny outdoor pool. It looked luscious. Our indignation was compounded by the well-meaning English couple who approached us in the car-park to commiserate with our not being able to get on the ‘best campsite in Spain’. They did help us out by pointing out the ’pool-less’ campsite down the road when we said we didn’t fancy the prospect of waiting an indeterminate length of time for a freed pitch.
We found the ‘overspill’ campsite clean and pleasant despite its lack of any leisure facilities (the other also had a tennis court by the way grrrrrrrrrr). We returned to the original site the next day to check if spaces had become available. When we found the same crowd and more waiting, we resigned ourselves to making the best of where we were and a few more days of prom walking and running.
As sod’s law will have it, here we went on to enjoy the longest and best stretch of fine weather so far and our first proper breakfast al fresco!
Isla La Plana is a small town right by the sea. Towns like this are a sad testimony to how badly Spain is being hit by the recession; particularly it seems when they rely heavily on tourism from the more northerly European countries. Obviously greatly popular over the past 20 to 30 years with the Brits, the weakness of the pound is having a significant impact. Granted we are out of season, but so many shops, cafés and restaurants are permanently boarded up and it is easier to count the apartments not for sale or for rent. I think the Spanish terms ‘se vende’ and ‘se alquila’ will be permanently imprinted on our minds … Most shocking perhaps are the many half-finished, now deserted new apartment developments that leave a lot of places looking sad and ghostly.
In good spirits at the thought that Annie would today be breaking her longest ever ‘swim-fast’ in a pool freshly –filled daily with seawater, we jaunted along the coast towards Cartagena. So begin to imagine the Bunch’s disappointment to find on arrival in Isla Plana that the campsite was FULL with people pitched up outside waiting for the next space!???? We couldn’t help going in to check out the afore-mentioned pool area where peoplewere enjoying an aqua aerobics session in the sunny outdoor pool. It looked luscious. Our indignation was compounded by the well-meaning English couple who approached us in the car-park to commiserate with our not being able to get on the ‘best campsite in Spain’. They did help us out by pointing out the ’pool-less’ campsite down the road when we said we didn’t fancy the prospect of waiting an indeterminate length of time for a freed pitch.
We found the ‘overspill’ campsite clean and pleasant despite its lack of any leisure facilities (the other also had a tennis court by the way grrrrrrrrrr). We returned to the original site the next day to check if spaces had become available. When we found the same crowd and more waiting, we resigned ourselves to making the best of where we were and a few more days of prom walking and running.
As sod’s law will have it, here we went on to enjoy the longest and best stretch of fine weather so far and our first proper breakfast al fresco!
Isla La Plana is a small town right by the sea. Towns like this are a sad testimony to how badly Spain is being hit by the recession; particularly it seems when they rely heavily on tourism from the more northerly European countries. Obviously greatly popular over the past 20 to 30 years with the Brits, the weakness of the pound is having a significant impact. Granted we are out of season, but so many shops, cafés and restaurants are permanently boarded up and it is easier to count the apartments not for sale or for rent. I think the Spanish terms ‘se vende’ and ‘se alquila’ will be permanently imprinted on our minds … Most shocking perhaps are the many half-finished, now deserted new apartment developments that leave a lot of places looking sad and ghostly.
Almeria
Monday 22nd – Tuesday 23rd February
As we began the journey that would take us along the coast to Eastern Spain and eventually northwards towards France we spent one night in as campsite just outside Almeria. It was in a very picturesque location snuggled into a bay a literal stone’s throw from the sea. It was lovely to be able to hear the waves from the caravan. However with nothing within walking distance and the promise of heated in- and outdoor pools at our next campsite we decided to stay only one night.
As we began the journey that would take us along the coast to Eastern Spain and eventually northwards towards France we spent one night in as campsite just outside Almeria. It was in a very picturesque location snuggled into a bay a literal stone’s throw from the sea. It was lovely to be able to hear the waves from the caravan. However with nothing within walking distance and the promise of heated in- and outdoor pools at our next campsite we decided to stay only one night.
Farewell to Torre del Mar
On Monday the 22nd of February we said goodbye to Torre del Mar after just over a month. We spent our last few days making final visits to what had become our favourite haunts and bidding farewell to some now familiar faces. First was the sullen waitress at Neptuna’s who was finally persuaded to chat and smile by the combination of our frequent visits for the best coffee in town and our ‘guapa’ baby girl. Second were the ever so slightly weather worn but cheery coaches at the municipal tennis court who started to pre-book us into the 12 o’clock spot. Thirdly the slightly frayed-edge band of penquin waiters at ‘Las Yucas’ who were just pipped to the post on their hot coffee by the mouthful of cake always served at Neptuna’s but never beaten on their fantastic tortilla baguettes and efficiency of service.
We were pleased to see Manfred and Karin turn up at our caravan door on our day of departure. They had been our neighbours in Portugal and the ones who had recommended Torre del Mar. It’s a shame that they only arrived as we were leaving. Once again they were stood under an umbrella in the pouring rain, will we ever know what they look like dry? We resolved to visit them in Germany one day to find out.
Krista had made a number of her own friends who were all desperate to take care of her as we got the caravan hitched up – she can converse in at least five languages cooing confidently (in order of fluency) in Italian, German, French, Spanish and a little Dutch. While she had the largest number of Italian friends, her best friend was the German lady opposite. Much to our amusement, with this friend she relished playing the coy ‘Mauschen’, giving many more cuddles and strokes than we ever get!
We were pleased to see Manfred and Karin turn up at our caravan door on our day of departure. They had been our neighbours in Portugal and the ones who had recommended Torre del Mar. It’s a shame that they only arrived as we were leaving. Once again they were stood under an umbrella in the pouring rain, will we ever know what they look like dry? We resolved to visit them in Germany one day to find out.
Krista had made a number of her own friends who were all desperate to take care of her as we got the caravan hitched up – she can converse in at least five languages cooing confidently (in order of fluency) in Italian, German, French, Spanish and a little Dutch. While she had the largest number of Italian friends, her best friend was the German lady opposite. Much to our amusement, with this friend she relished playing the coy ‘Mauschen’, giving many more cuddles and strokes than we ever get!
Friday, 26 February 2010
La Manga
Hello every one! An update to say that we are currently close to Cartagena where we have spent a lovely few days in the sun. Today we move on to La Manga booked on to a Camping and Caravan Club rally site. This means that Camping and Caravan Club have pre-booked sites that members can get at a preferential rate. There is an indoor pool and tennis court at the site that we hope to be able to use. Not sure about internet opportunities but if we can't access the net onsite we will find WI-FI in a cafe. Thanks for all the emails we have been receiving. We will be getting back to you ASAP xxxx
Saturday, 20 February 2010
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